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question about peyote

  • Auteur de la discussion Auteur de la discussion Mycophile
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I'll be honest I have read a lot of different things and come to the conclution no one knows for sure. Magicbrad told me he grows his and they do contain mescaline and that decipiens variety is very good also caespitose are worth while. My own idea is this, lets say look at a different plant such as cannabis now this plant grown both in the wild and cultivated both produce THC. The plant its self decides what chemicals it produces and if in the wild it produces mescaline then I would asume it would also if cultivated. there will be deffinate factors that control the levels of mwscaline produced such as soil type, how wet it gets, light and temperature. in the wild they will get more sun than say the UK so it will be warmer and a lot dryer as they come from the desert therefor as the different varieties come from different areas with different conditions mescaline content would also differ. If you want to produce larger mescaline production keep them dry and hot the alkaliods including mescaline are produced to protect the cactus from heat and drought and cold. Also direct light will have an effect they go purple with regular exposier again increasing alkaliods. but too much extreme conditioning can kill it. I have read several techniques to increase mescaline content but most involve potentially damaging the cactus. One of the best I have seen is to let it dry out for a growing season only adding very little water if it looks very wrickled. The other favorable methode which is what I will use when I eventually decide to do it will be to dry out over autum and winter(this is normal practice for peyote care especially if kept in cold house/green house over winter) once winter is over harvest the buttons making sure you leave some of the tuffs on the root(see websites for harvest techniques). Let the root in the pot rest for a week or two out of direct light so it will dry and form a calus then water from below until you get new buttons form. You can eat the buttons fresh but have read it is more likely to make you sick or let them dry out reducing volume needed to be consumed and removing some less wanted alkaliods. If you take a look at my other thread on dosage magicbrad recomends about 10 buttons 5cm across for a strong trip.
 
Another two have sproutted in the pot on the right if you take a look at the above photo, will upload a pic once they are a bit bigger as they just look like grains of sand at the moment.

One thing I feel is nessessary to point out as I have not read it anywhere when researching growing lophophora williamsii, is that they only sprout out of the seed casing at night when the temp has dipped substantially from day time temp (I have taken to opening the window right next to the propigator tray so the draft goes all around for about 4-6 hours at night) and that when they do they start out yellow and gradually change to green as they get older. For some reason this has not been stated by anyone else that I have found so hope this little bit of info helps anyone like me who is growing from seed for the first time.
 
Here take a look at this photo, you should see what I mean when I say they are yellow first. Also both me and my wife agree that they look more like mushrooms than a plant when they sprout even down to the stem(root)Voir la pièce jointe 12547
 
Thanks a lot adetheproducer!You are helping me a lot!
Now i cut 2 buttons of my cluster to repot them separately!I will post some pics on that too.
I am wondering if i have to start a new thread on this..Anyway..
I will reed your thread for sure!I am thinking to go for a 5 button trip when it comes..(if i dont change my mind till then :P)
I had a very difficult trip with mushrooms (35 gr fresh) 3 years before and now i am more respectful on those plants-fungus.
p.s. I had a very light trip 2 days before with mushrooms and it was wonderful though too light, always thinking in my trip:i can go much further than this.
hope i can loose ego again without me going on a bad trip!
 
I am going to use your mix on my cuttings :)
If i take the limestones and the sand from a beach would be ok with ph?Also i would like to know how can i provide nutrients on my cuttings with the soil mix?
 
I was trying to find sources on peyote cultivation, bat there is really minimum amount out there!
So i was thinking, why not to make a thread for anyone to post his knowledge sources, and maybe we learn some new things!
And even if we don't, we will achieve a database of all kind of knowledge on peyote!
I hope you like the idea and help on that project.

Starting up: Lophophora.info
MagiCactus.com - Lophophora Williamsii - Peyote
The Peyote Way Church of God » Peyote Cultivation

As far as i know those where some sites.

On books the only thing i found worthwhile is: From, Adam Gottlieb peyote and other psychoactive cacti (2nd edition) p.s. you cant found on internet on pdf format for free (there is some downloads bat there are not this book)

Thats all my sources plus some video with grafting instructions.
 
Great collection!!I buy mine on internet for 30 euros (5cm pot caespitose) :(
 
Make sure you wash the sand out loads! Get all the salt out. Might be better finding a clean stream and sourcing from fresh water instead. Limestone will be easy to get from most beaches in southern uk just smash up some pebbles with a hammer. Nutrients does not need to be provided much. Just get a low nitrogen fertilizer and mix it about half of that directed you need high phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. You can do this buy adding the right type of rocks but trying to find out where you can collect such rocks in the uk has proven pointless so just stick to bought fertiliser pop down your local garden centre. Also while I am mentioning your local garden centre have a look in their cactus section. All of my 3 peyotes have been bought from garden centres with my largest only costing £6 at 4.5cm diameter when purchased, they should also have small bags of agrigates for potting thats where I get my grit sand and small pebbles for the top layer.
 
Great sources adetheproducer!Hope this thread helps many people who love this sacred plant.
 
I can found lot of limestones here too!Peyote as a plant is not illegal here (i think) so maybe some research would be fruitful!I dont get it exactly, you say i can use a soil mix completely not fertilised and just fertilise my plant on every watering with a cactus fert?Also if i use compost with some minor nutrients (not for cacti) would be ok?Because i really cant found nutrient free compost :(.
Thanks again for helping me mate!
 
Just use peat free compost or dig some up from somewhere clean like your local forset, their will only be a little soil in the mainly stone and sand mix when its finished. The fertilizer does not need to be given with every watering, what I do is water from below let it soak for about 5 mins or until you can see water filling the pot then let it drain and put back in the normal spot making sure the orientation to the sun does not change. Do this say once a week or longer if the pot stays wet make sure it dries out completely before doing it again. Then in the hottest months I mix the liquid fertiliser and spray the cactus from above just enough the get the surface of the soil wet and the plant a good rinse down. Then from about september til febuary dont water unless the cactus looks very wrinkled then only spray lightly, Do not fertilise during these months. If you keep it outside/green house do not water during winter at all if the frost gets to it when there is a lot of water inside the cactus it will kill it. The mescaline and other alkaloids act as antifreeze so watering would dilute the alkaloids leaving the plant vunderable.
 
Thanks again.I read though that caespitose var prefer normal watering than down watering, so that would be my next question, when i repot my cuttings that are caespitose i need to water from down for a while?It seems to me that down water will help roots to come down..
Also i was thinking to plant them with regular cactus soil+perlite because i will use 5 cm pots and it seems difficult to transplant them with rocks on that small area :(
 
A little off topic but I found it useful when researching soil types the main thing I took from it was that the area where peyote is found has calcium rich soil so plenty of lime stone and minimal nutrients due to lack of heavy vegitation. Also I collect lichen fallen from trees in my local woods dry it out and crush it up as a natural source of fertiliser that as far as I can tell is low in nitrogen due to the lichens own diet as it where.

CHIHUAHUAN DESERT
 
First of all sorry for the piss poor drawing but it should do the job.

the purple lines indicate the directions of growth

The tap root will want to gow as deep as possable so a nice tall pot will allow that. keep the pot narrow so it dries out quickly does not need to be much larger than the plant.

Watering from the top will get the light blue area wet and maybe down the sides of the pot as well but most will stay dry as the cactus is wider at top than bottom.

Watering from below will fill the bottom of the pot (the darker blue line) so the tap root stretches to get at the water in the direction of growth.

I cant remember where I read it but as the root grow down they pull the cactus down and the growth from centre making the tuffs move from centre to the edge causing like a convayer belt for any detrus that falls on top building up the soil around the edges of the cactus. Thats why they always are almost burried when seen in the wild.
 
Well the total is up to 6 now will upload more photos when its worth it. The older ones are looking like little cacti now but not yet sprouted the first hairs.
 
I purchased a new peyote a week or so ago but unfortunatelly my 2 year old daughter knocked it over and it has split in 3 places and looks a bit bruised on the top. Now the splits dont look to bad and they have dried out and hardend, the bruishing also does not look to bad. I repotted and left for a week without water out of direct light to rest. It started to feel soft so gave it its first water yesterday and moved to the green house as it is warmer but overcast so still not direct light.

The problem I have is this,

do I let it rest for longer and see if it firms up once water has been absorbed as it may well be ok but equally it could rot the button killing the cactus.

Or

do I harvest the damaged button and allow new buttons to grow from the unharmed root?

would very much like any help at all on this

My only hesitation s that other than the damage to the button it looks like a very nice plant and would be a shame to harvest. I will up load photo shortly.
 
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