San pedro

[Goran.Hrsak]

And bout "static" head, if it still remains green, healthy, but doesn't grow as it could that shows low root potency. And minerals level is maybe too low.

I made a photo of the cactus with the pinhead that stopped growing. It doesn't look malnourished to me - the other part is growing like crazy (given that the cactus has been cut off this February or so - it was much smaller than the double cactus in the first pictures!).

While I was at it, I made another photo of the double-headed specimen, also a little larger now. The colors of these two cacti are totally different, this one is a much lighter green with a yellow touch. Somehow the double-headed one looks more speckled in the picture than in real life, must be the high contrast.

This time it's only snapshots in the sunlight with some flash for fill light, doesn't look as high-class as the first pictures with the 3-point lighting setup and the black background, but I didn't have the time right now to set that up again.

EVERYTHING IS GOOD WITH CACTI. YOUR PROBLEM LIES IN ROOTS! CACTI GROWS IN SIMILAR SPEED-SIZE AND THEN STOP. BUBBLING. PERUVIAN CACTI IS SURVIVOR, SO IT CAN GROW EVEN MORE THEN 40CM PER YEAR IN PERFECT CONDITIONS BUT ALSO REMAIN SMALL IN NOT SO GOOD ENVIRONMENT. DO NOT WORRY, AFTER SOME TIME EVERYTHING WILL COME TO RIGHT THING. MAYBE NEW SOIL WILL FORCE CACTI TO START QUICKER GROW. BUT EVERYTHING ELSE IS PERFECT! NEED TIME, BELIEVE ME! WILL POST SAME PHOTOS. TOMORROW

 

[bluesaucer]

From what I see online, it looks like Peruvian Torch and San Pedro are constructed as follows, going from the surface to the center:

1. semi-clear, flaky wax layer (the cuticle?)
2. green, waxy skin (the epidermis?)
3. light green tissue (the primary phloem?)
4. whitish tissue (the secondary phloem?)
5. a thin, round layer of tough fibers (the vascular cambium?)
6. nearly white "woody" tissue (the secondary and primary xylem?)

They say 37.5 grams of dried Peruvian Torch yields a 300 mg dose of mescaline (as a rough ballpark figure). But apparently that applies to the cactus as a whole, and the alkaloids are actually almost entirely in the light green flesh. So how many grams of dried light green flesh alone do you need for a 300 mg dose? And for that matter, am I right that there's no mescaline in the outer whitish fibrous material (the part I'm calling "layer 4", and which I'm guessing is the secondary phloem)?

 

[IJesusChrist]

of the green flesh... I wonder why you ask?

cut your cactus, weight 37.5, and then trim the desired part and keep!

now weigh it.

you've answered your own question!

 

[darkwolfunseen]

Okay so another thread made me think of this.

SWIM has a few pounds of fresh pedro cut up (peeled skin and not the woody core). Now, I've done this a few ways before, but I was thinking of the following two things:

A) Freeze the fresh skin, then unfreeze, squeeze in a tshirt, drain (collecting fluid) and refreeze. Continue until material is completely dry. Freeze all liquid until use.

B) Put in a sack or tshirt and dry in the sun for a few days.

I guess what I'm asking is will Method A work (I'm 50/50 on it), or if not, what is your best recommendation for getting pedro into powder form. Thanks.

 

[bluesaucer]

If you think I've answered my own question, ask someone who's good at reading to explain my question to you again.

 

[Shamanita]

edit: whoops

 

[IJesusChrist]

you're mean.

 

[MrCactus]

From what I see online, it looks like Peruvian Torch and San Pedro are constructed as follows, going from the surface to the center:

1. semi-clear, flaky wax layer (the cuticle?)
2. green, waxy skin (the epidermis?)
3. light green tissue (the primary phloem?)
4. whitish tissue (the secondary phloem?)
5. a thin, round layer of tough fibers (the vascular cambium?)
6. nearly white "woody" tissue (the secondary and primary xylem?)

And for that matter, am I right that there's no mescaline in the outer whitish fibrous material (the part I'm calling "layer 4", and which I'm guessing is the secondary phloem)?

1. There is no Meskalin in the outer transparent waxy layer.
This outer skin is very difficult to chew ! :?
3. The green tissue is called chlorenchym layer, with cells containing chlorophyl.
4. The whitish Layer 4 must contain Meskalin, but less than the green parts.
5. & 6. Probably nothing.

I'll look it up in "Trout" at the end of this week.

 

[DaZeD]

Hi, yesterday i bought my first San Pedro, and i have a question, what do i do when my cactus is getting too big for it's medium?

The jar i'm growing it in is pretty small, but i heard from the guy from the headshop who sold it to me that this is just right cause the roots of a San Pedro are very small, and a bigger medium would be bad for the cactus.

It's still pretty small now, like 20cm., but when it gets bigger i'd like to replant it, i heard that it would be good to take cactus ground mixed with a sort of grounded rocks, the guy just ruined 2 San Pedros by replanting it in soil that was too heavy and he killed the poor things.

I wouldn't want that to happen with mine ofcourse, i've been craving to experience Mescaline so long now, i'd be mad as hell if the where killed when they grew for so long.

Can anyone recommend me the right proportions for the medium and ground i shoud use?
Thanks in advance.

 

[MrCactus]

Length 20 cm : take a pot with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a height of 12-15 cm.
Soil : normal soil for houseplants ("normale potgrond").
Plant the SP 4-5 cm in the soil.

 

[Ultima]

i found a good mixture of dense soil/little sand/peat moss makes a very good soil for trichocereus. i started with 4 cuttings of KK242 peruvian torch grown in adobe mud/peat/shale stone using water from the river, and they got fat quick. they more then tripled in width and were going new sets of spikes every 2-3 days. i just cut the tops off all the cacti, now i have 8 cacti. itll take another year for the new cuttings to get rooted/big enough to cut again, but the cacti that i cut already have huge pups coming up.

i say cut the top off your cacti! keep at least 4 inches of the main plant. let em dry out then root em!

 

[Mezzanine]

It's really hard to make a mistake with these plants as all succulents ans specifically cactii are hardy things. I've grown cactii in all kinds of soil from a clay topsoil mix to the stuff you buy at home depot called "cactus mix".

The most important thing is if you take a cutting, leave it out in the sun to dry...never ever put a fresh cutting into any soil as it will rot. Another important thing is never water the cuttings once you put them into soil to root, as there are no roots and again you run the risk of rot. I've had cuttings sprout new growth without even having any roots, there is tons of energy stored in the plant. I prefer to use clay pots so that any excess moisture can get out, make sure the sides aren't glazed though.

As far as replanting, if your goal is a healthy plant then you will have to re-pot because you don't want it to get root-bound. The more roots the bigger the cactus will be in the end. From what I've read the more you stress the plant...root-bound, lack of light, water starvation the higher the production of what your looking for will be as it's a response to stress. I personally just like growing plants so I make sure they are happy and healthy.

Sorry for the randomness of the post but if you need any more info http://sacredcactus.com/ has a lot of good info...although he is lucky enough to be in Cali and I'm somewhere further north with less than ideal outdoor conditions

 

[tryptonaut]

Hi, yesterday i bought my first San Pedro, and i have a question, what do i do when my cactus is getting too big for it's medium?

The jar i'm growing it in is pretty small, but i heard from the guy from the headshop who sold it to me that this is just right cause the roots of a San Pedro are very small, and a bigger medium would be bad for the cactus.

The guy was right at first (the roots are pretty small at first, so no hurry to get a bigger pot), but a bigger pot obviously won't hurt the cactus. If it would, then cacti growing in the wild would be having a pretty hard time, would they? Considering the unlimited size of the "pot" they are growing in...

As was said before, San Pedro are really sturdy, I have been growing them in cheap cactus soil (essentially potting soil with some sand), in normal potting soil with sand and perlite and also in special "grow medium" (they don't call it "soil") from a cactus dealer. I really can't see much of a difference, the San Pedros do grow well in almost every medium/soil. The fertilizer does seem to make a difference, though. The one I had from the supermarket (it was labelled "cactus fertilizer") was low on nitrogen, low on phosphorous and high on potassium. It was fine, no negative effects at all, but then I got another one from the cactus shop, and it was low on nitrogen only, and high on phosphorous and potassium (to stimulate flowering in cacti, I guess) and this seemed to stimulate branching a lot. Since I have been using this fertilizer, my San Pedros do branch a lot more than before.

 

[MrCactus]

Growing and branching is activated by nitrogen (N2).
Somehow your SP's are getting more of it.

Phosphor (P2) is specially needed for the roots and the flowers.
The best Cactus-fertilizers contain:
1. Magnesium (Mg) which is needed for making chlorofyl: even 3 % !
2. micro-nutrients (trace-elements) like S, Fe, B, Mn, Zn.

So look for a N : P : K : Mg ratio of 5 : 20 : 40 : 3 or something near this.


See the summary at the end of this pdf:
http://www.scottsprofessional.com/files/56AodHyfSQ.pdf

 

[mogdonotkd]

Hello, folks, looks like swim s brew who was kept in a broken refrigirator fermented. If swim boils this fermented sanpedro juice and remove the fungi, will kill him or he may easily swim with tha cactus spirit?

 

[Ultima]

id throw it out, and get a new batch... better safe then sorry..

 

[IJesusChrist]

It could kill you, yeah... Most kitchen molds aren't deadly, but boiling it is not a necessary way to get rid of the toxins. You will 'kill' the mold, but the toxic chemicals could still be stable at 100°C

 

[mogdonotkd]

:axe:
thnx, i hope everything will turn to b fine...

 

[tryptonaut]

Sorry my answering this over a month later - but you could be right about more Nitrogen. Although I had been using normal plant fertilizer with high nitrogen before and it wouldn't make the cacti branch more, only made them grow faster and thinner (which isn't that good)

The stuff I'm using now is this: http://www.kakteen-haage.de/shop/zubeho ... essig.html
It is 6-12-6 which seems unconventional for a cactus fertilizer, but they say it's their standard fertilizer for all their cacti and it usually didn't need any additives. I have been happy with it so far, and I still got plenty left, so I'm gonna use it further.

 

[MrCactus]

N-P-K of 6-12-6 has too few K, which will make your plants weaker than needed.
Besides that there is no Mg in it, so better look out for a complete fertilizer.
More info here:
http://www.peyote-paradise.nl/index.php ... 25&lang=NL