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scrog method

  • Auteur de la discussion Auteur de la discussion im1badpup
  • Date de début Date de début

im1badpup

Elfe Mécanique
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10/9/08
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290
i did a couple of plants in dwc, then changed to soil (funnily enough the yields was nearly the same although soil was about a week longer) anyways this time im trying to improve yields, anyone out there with scrog experience?
im doing a couple of plants again in canna pro+ feeding advanced(canada) range of nutrients... i am going to cut the bottom 1/3 to 2/3 branches off and bend the top branches to try create an even canopy. has anyone tried "crushing" gently the stems to slow the growth of some of the more vigorous branches? ( i think the methods called supercropping)
its to try give the other branches time to catch up and expand my canopy more to make best use of the available light.
im currently getting (last two grows) approx 450g dried n trimmed from 2 plants under a 600w hps i think the gpw ratio was .81 and .72 respectively, i didnt veg as long last time, most likely the reduction in weight, and i think im losing a lot of lumens from not making full use of my grow area, i dont want to grow more plants than 2 a time for legal reasons.
 
you can rub the stems, it will stunt the growth. there is a chance of killing them if you are too enthusiastic though

better still, if you have the time is to tie down the higher branches so they are all the same height. it does take time though as it wont take long for others to take the place of the tops. you have to re-tie every 2-3 days but with practice you can train the plant into any shape you like. great if you only have a couple of plants, a pain if you have more than 10
 
Paint the walls matt white if they arent already , and check if your bulb is fucked . They should be changed once a year .
 
There are several ways to setup a scrogg.

To max out your crops i advice you to set it up like this:
http://www.wietforum.nl/index.php?showt ... &hl=scrogg

It is in dutch though, but the images speak for itself.
You can really get the most of 2 plants, or even one this way.
It will require a longer veg period though.
Crushing the stems a little is good.
You can bend them perfectly like that while not stressing the plant too much.

Painting the walls white is good.
Try to cover the walls with aluminium foil, even the cheapest you can get!
Even better, diamond diffusion foil!
But that is super expensive.

Like GOD said, change the bulb in time. Not needed every year though.
It depends on the hours it has burned, and how hot it is getting while burning. Advice: Use a cooling tube to make them last longer,
and reduce heat in the growroom!

[edit]
A cooler lightsource can be put closer to plants!
[/edit]

To check how far a bulb has deteriorated you can make a "ghetto lux meter":

Rip out the solar cell from some crappy calculator,
hook it to some volt meter and measure the output of a new bulb
and a old one which produces little crops. Then you should be able to switch the bulbs out in time.
 
Never use aluminium foil, it causes hot spots and can burn your plants . Mylar is the best followed by matt white paint .

If you dont mind having more than 2 plants forget scrog and go for sea of green . You will get more once you have sussed it . Up to 600 g a square meter . A 600 watt lamp is big enough for 1.5 square meters .

If you use a bulb for 12 months it needs changing . If you dont your harvest will get smaller and the buds smaller . Try it and see with two gardens . One with one bulb and the other with a new one every 12 months .

Read the books . Dont go to web sites full of kids that are not realy doing it , or are and are having problems ...... because they take advice from each other and didnt read the books .

If you want the biggest harvest and the best quality grow outside .

Those books are writen by experts . Read them first .
 
alluminum foil gets used all the time over here. it is cheap and works perfectly.
Plug and play growboxes have it aswell although not the cheapest foil,
but still it is aluminum foil usually. Not always.
There is also industrial grade aluminum foil which doesnt wrinkle.

The diamond diffusion foil gives guaranteed higher yields,
it scatters the light even harder then wrinkled cheap aluminum foil.

You have to just keep an eye on it. Keep it as flat as possible and you will see how much lumen get reflected. Exponetially more then with white latex paint.

On this site:
http://www.growshop.com/
at the bottom you can see the foil on the inside of the growbox.
That is hotspot danger right there!

Diamond diffusion foil:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp ... 10&eq=&Tp=

When you want to really use refletion for getting moren lumen on your plants, you are going to have to deal with hotspots. Everyone, everywhere.
The diffusion foil does not even eliminate it completely but it is a matter of finetuning.

Also, get on www.opengrow.com

Get first hand experience from pro growers from holland.
That works even better then books, they have the edge you see.
Ask them what to use, see what they say, go see what suppliers of coffeshops use in holland to grow.

[edit]
Also, every grower has problems along the way.

Reading books is one thing, going to forums another.
Some lessons just can't be learned from books...
Some lessons must be lived.
[/edit]
:wink:
 
Thank you . Exactly . Go to the best and most experienced grrowers lik ed rosenthal that the dutch learned off . If that isnt right please tell me why better grass comes from california than the most from holland . If that isnt true please explain why the quality of dutch grass hasnt gone up since the 80s and why they keep enriching their stocks with US genetics . Remember "Haze" ? Its still the strongest plant in holland and it came from the US in the 70s , before most of you were born . Remember "White widow" and the whole white line ? Its strength comes from brazilian plants not dutch plants .

Read the books . And maybe look at my fotos and compaire them to what you generaly see on forums . Show your fotos dennis so they can compaire .

My last post .
 
i feel hostility.

But if you want to know why crap weed is grown in holland, here is your answer:

Most suppliers want to make money fast. So, they use loads of nutrients, spray preventive with poison against bugs. So yeah, then you are smoking f'd up weed. Also, most of those bastards are too damn lazy to produce stabilized, proper species, so they pollinate one female with one male and sell f1 seeds. Because they want the money and don't give a fuck about the fact that they are f'ing up true species. Country bound species like afghan, kush from india, etc. They create f1 seeds, grow the weed, fill it up with poison and nutrients, and sell it. And do 4 or 5 rounds per year like that.

Few people care about the plant and all it stands for.
So, that's why people buy f'd up weed over here very often.
Homegrowers, who go for quality, not quantity have the best stuff.

White species are all commercial jokes.

Haze is probably the strongest specie on earth. It largely has todo with bloom time. A good haze can bloom upto 16 weeks and give that all nutrients and light it needs and nothing compares to it when you smoke it after it has cured for some weeks.

But i think this is far off topic.
So excuse me for this rudeness hehehe.
 
You werent rude and i wasnt hostile . I totaly agree with your last post . And dont say i said i wont post again . I`m a star seed from B,sirius and can travell through time...........
 
i use mylar on the walls. the cooltubes i wouldnt mind trying this summer, but with a 200mm rvk my temps arent a problem in winter .
ive just been trying the larger plants out the last 18months, rather than sog, out of really.. well boredom and curiosity, legality comes into it as well i suppose, i spent ten years growing on nft, veg to 12 inch and flower.
i went to soil, cos ive never tried it, and tried dwc as well seen as everyone was raving about superfast growth etc.
i found soil the most simple, when to start adding nutes would be the biggest challenge, i measure the ec of the runoff after watering to decide this.
the dwc i got the best gpw ratio in, .86 and i fucked up a few times, if i try that again ill use a bigger resevoir to slow them huge ec, ph swings i was getting.
funnily enough the nft i was only getting 12-14 oz per 600w on average, the soil 14-16oz and dwc come in 16-18 ( 7 day shorter veg and flower time) too.
this time round, i gave the cuttings about 4 days 12/12 before vegging, and fed nitrozyme to try encourage more branching to scrog..
the results so far are interesting, i have heavily branched plants, as wide as they are tall, i never had chance to properley scrog net these to spread them, however i did drape pea netting over one plant, tied it off underneath the 30l pot, and have managed to spread the branches pretty well. i did it like that so the plant is still manourevable in the grow area.

GOD them fucking hazes choke me man :lol: the method you described sog is how u got them nice phat buds in another thread? the 600g one?

dennis them pics are interesting, they are using a lot of plants per m2 by the looks of it though.. i envisoned 1-2 plants per m2 it looks like theyre doing 6-8.
 
There are many variations of the above two methods, yet they all utilize the same principles. SOGs and ScrOGs were originally developed to get the most out of poor quality fluorescent lights.
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