Copelandia cyanescens

[topiwaki]

hi,
i've already tried my chances on the dutch forum, did'nt get much respons.
i have many questions about growing copelandia cyanescens or paneolis cyanescens (what's the diffrence anyway?).
first i like to note that i am a first time grower and i know i would be better of with some easier species like cubensis, but hey, i like a challenge and i have a special relationship with the "hawaian".
has anybody ever growt them with succes? Any hints or tips (besides working very clean /forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )?
some say i should use cow dung, vermicullite and straw for substrate, others work with finch seed or rye?
what do you think is most commendable?
do they need more air supply as cubensis?
is blue light efficient for growing?
is dry cow dung better then the fresh stuff?

oh by the way,
don't drink to much the following days /forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif
/forum/images/graemlins/pint.gif /forum/images/graemlins/alc.gif /forum/images/graemlins/puke.gif /forum/images/graemlins/tonofbricks.gif /forum/images/graemlins/snore.gif /forum/images/graemlins/icon_head222.gif

 

[Guest]

Hi Topiwaki,

Copelandia C. = Panaeolus C. > Mycologists like to give different names to the same specie.

If you never grew a Cubensis before the Hawaiian will be a challenge indeed. YOU are Mother Nature, and Mother Nature in combination with growing the Hawaiian is difficult.
With Cubensis you can make mistakes and still get a harvest. Make mistakes with the Hawaiian, and it's most likely end of story. /forum/images/graemlins/icon_head222.gif

There are a lot of different opinions, but I think that 2 things are the most important:
- Temperature. Temperature is very important. Too cold, too warm can be catastrofical.
- Fresh air. The Hawaiian is way more sensitive to fresh air than the Cubensis.

About substrate > straw/dung is in my opinion better than rye seed. (not out of experience...)

Good luck... and post some pictures when it works..!

 

[topiwaki]

hi,

maybe i can handle the temperature with heating-wire from a terrarium. what is your ideal temperature for the hawaian?
and what about fresh air? wave a few time a day with a cardboard in the aqarium?
if a succeed i sure will post some pictures!!
thanks anyway

 

[phobey]

some say i should use cow dung, vermicullite and straw for substrate, others work with finch seed or rye?what do you think is most commendable?

As initial spawn its best to use grasseeds. But u can also fruit them very easy on a plain BRF cake with dung added. If u use the gs spawn that into some straw/dung.

do they need more air supply as cubensis?

Way more (constant airflow is recommended)

is blue light efficient for growing?

Barely noticable

is dry cow dung better then the fresh stuff?

For sure always use dried dung and pastuerize it instead of sterilise.

Hope this helps /forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[LorpasPT]

Man just a little advice!
As an experienced grower i would suggest that u start grow cubensis at least once! And u will find for sure that they are pretty much a challenge!

Substrate for the cultivation of Panaeolus cyanescens and Panaeolus tropicalis can be prepared in the following manner:

Ingredients: Dried cow dung, vermiculite and soaked straw (submerged in water for 12 hours)

For 4 standard spawn bags we use: 1/2 kilogram dry straw, 4 liters of dried dung, 3 liters of vermiculite and 3-4 liters of water



The dung and vermiculite in dry form are mixed



Water is added and the mixture is stirred

(Make sure that the mixture is not too wet as loose water will often result in bacterial contamination later)

The straw is added and mixed in thoroughly!


The substrate is divided over four autoclavable spawnbags (with a filter patch)
The flaps are folded and the bags are put into the pressure cooker. A lid is put on top to prevent the bags from blocking the steam valve

After sterilisation (2 full hours!) the bags are allowed to cool down in the flowcabinet.

Two jars with Panaeolus cyanescens spawn on rye to be used for the inoculation of the substrate. Note that Panaeolus species do not colonise grain as densely as for instance Psilocybe cubensis.



The bags are opened in the flowcabinet (only touch the outside of the bags!) and each bag is spawned with 300 ml of spawn by means of free pouring

The bags are sealed with an impulse sealer.

The bags are shaken to mix the spawn with the substrate.
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Substrate Colonisation

The mycelium will now start to colonise the substrate. Depending on the temperature and the frequency of shaking the substrate will be fully colonised in 5-10 days

A bag of substrate after 3 days. Note the white mycelium.

After some days and regular shaking the substrate is fully colonised.

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Casing the substrate
A plastic bin is cleaned with alcohol (note the holes plugged with polyfill).

The bags are cut open with scissors.
The fully colonised substrate is put into the bin.
Two bags are used for one bin.
The substrate is levelled by hand (wear gloves!)
A thin layer (1-1.5cm) of sterilised casing soil is put on.

This too is levelled by hand.

The bin is covered with polyethylene wrap to prevent contamination and moisture loss.


The bins are now put in a warm place for the casing layer to colonise. After 5 or 6 days the mycelium will show up on the casing layer.

At this moment another bin is put on top (upside down) to create sort of a "mini-greenhouse". Note the mesh covered holes in the top bin.





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Fruiting

After some days the first mushrooms will appear. The casing soil must be kept moist (use a spray bottle).

The mushrooms will mature in a couple of days.

Cultivation notes

Paneolus cyanescens and tropicalis are much more sensitive to high CO2 concentrations. We believe the most important reason for people to fail in their research with Paneolus species is that they do not expose their cultures to enough fresh air. When air exchange is insuffcient many mushrooms will form but only a few will mature, the rest will abort. Also the mushrooms appearance is influenced. Improper air exchange will result in tall spindly mushrooms with small caps.

These species will grow in a wide range of temperatures but they really flourish when temperatures are around 25 degrees Celsius or a little higher.

Because not all substrains from a multispore germination seem all to viable it is wise to start with a multispore culture and clone the best looking mushrooms for your further investigations into these two species.

 

[topiwaki]

ok, that's something, thanks a lot.
maybe i start with the cubensis, a bit against my will but i can always learn something out of them...
but i will try the cyan at a later time.
for having some of a challenge i will start from syringe or spores.
looks like i'm going to order the easy package of syringe from azarius.
are there any cubensis with simular feeling as with the cyan.
i mean a very visual trip. al the cubensis i had (and i had a few /forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif ) are more of the thinking types and i do not had some of the colourfull visions i had with cyan. i tried to push up the quantity but it still did not came near of the feel i had with a little bit of cyan.
sure there have to be a diffrence in some types of cubensis?

 

[Guest]

never had pan cyans yet, but I find that Equadors give a very visual trip /forum/images/graemlins/laugh.gif